From three parcels, a majority from the lieu-dit of "Thenevery," the 2011 Morey St. Denis Village is tighter, more reticent on the nose than Laurent-s fellow Village crus, although the palate is well-balanced with a pleasant juicy opening that fans out toward raspberry and strawberry leaf notes on the mid-palate. There is just a nagging dry note on the aftertaste that will hopefully disappear with bottle age. Drink 2014-2018.
Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable.
Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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