Lamy's finest red is the 2020 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge), a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and perfumed wine evocative of orange zest, sweet red berries, plums and potpourri. Layered and sapid, it concludes with a long, saline finish.

The 2019 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, peonies, orange rind, exotic spices, rose petals and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, perfumed finish, it's the most elegant, seamless red in the range.

The 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) has turned out brilliantly in bottle, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, wild plums, woodsmoke and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, perfumed and charming, with a fleshy core of fruit, velvety tannins and lively acids, it's deep and concentrated. Lamy may be better-known for his whites, but anyone who tastes this Santenay will understand that his talents are far from being confined to Chardonnay.

More delicate and ethereal than the 2018, Lamy's 2017 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) is also performing well, bursting with scents of rose petals, red berries and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and lively, it's framed by succulent acids and powdery tannins. I'm inclined to give the edge to the richer, more dramatic 2018 in terms of overall potential, but this 2017 is immensely seductive today.

The 2016 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) has a pretty and more understated bouquet compared to the Saint Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard—vivid red cherries, crushed strawberry and freshly tilled earthy aromas bounding from the glass. The palate is well balanced with good structure, a more masculine and rather broody and serious Santenay with depth and muscle. Give this a couple of years in bottle.