More delicate and ethereal than the 2018, Lamy's 2017 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) is also performing well, bursting with scents of rose petals, red berries and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and lively, it's framed by succulent acids and powdery tannins. I'm inclined to give the edge to the richer, more dramatic 2018 in terms of overall potential, but this 2017 is immensely seductive today.