The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien is one of the highlights of the range this year. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, crisp green apple, lime, orange oil, nutmeg and bread dough, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with a seamless, complete profile and a long, saline finish. The vines in this parcel, like those in the Clos de la Chatenière, suffer from leaf roll virus, which results in elevated levels of concentration.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien wafts from the glass with aromas of peach, orange oil, nutmeg and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's layered and concentrated, with an ample core of fruit that's girdled by racy acids and chalky structuring extract. This, too, has turned out beautifully.

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien is less advanced in its élevage than the wines that preceded it in this tasting, and it is correspondingly harder to read—though given its place in the resounding qualitative crescendo chez Lamy there can be little doubt about its likely ultimate quality. Exhibiting aromas of citrus oil, white flowers and fresh pastry, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional but also tightly wine and reserved, concluding with a long, saline finish.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien was one of the highlights of Lamy's range from barrel, and it lives up to that showing from bottle. Wafting from the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, clear honey, pear and oyster shell, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with an electric spine of acidity and a tangy, saline finish.

The 2016 St Aubin 1er Cru les Murgers des Dents de Chien was showing more reduction on the nose compared to its fellow premier crus. The palate is open for business, adorned with cooking apple and fresh pear notes, moderate weight in the mouth, though I was just seeking a tad more tension on the finish compared to the previous two vintages and indeed, the 2015 Clos de la Chatenniere.