The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien was one of the highlights of Lamy's range from barrel, and it lives up to that showing from bottle. Wafting from the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, clear honey, pear and oyster shell, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with an electric spine of acidity and a tangy, saline finish.