Charming and expressive, Mikulski's 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Les Gouttes d'Or bursts with aromas of pear, ripe apples, Meyer lemon and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and nicely layered, it's rich but lively.

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Les Gouttes d'Or has a light but charming bouquet: walnut, popcorn and pralines developing with each swirl of the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant, the acidity perhaps the best of Fran?ois's Merursault, although it suddenly feels linear towards the finish. Give this a year in bottle to get the most from this.

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d’Or has a pleasant touch of reduction on the nose, not too much mind you, but enough to evoke images of Coche-Dury across the road! The palate is fresh and vibrant with quince and tangy orange rind. There is good depth in the mouth with a lovely waxy texture on the finish. This is another great Meursault courtesy of Fran?ois and I can see this maturing with style once in bottle.

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d’Or is perhaps Francois’ finest of the vintage. It is taciturn at first, but with aeration reveals attractive scents of cold stone, white peach and a trace of white chocolate. The palate is very well-balanced with good fruit concentration, a fine line of acidity and a lovely touch of orange zest and peach on the mellow but delineated finish. Very fine. Drink 2014-2024. It was a pleasure to return to one of my favorite Meursault growers, Francois Mikulski, a conscientious winemaker. His wines offer both broad commercial appeal and the complexity to satisfy aficionados. If I am being honest, I do not think Francois’ 2011s quite hit all the buttons, and occasionally displayed too much herbaceous character. However, they are keenly priced and from my own experience can mature deceptively well, though I think I would enjoy these wines in the flush of youth. Francois told me that he replaced his Gamay with Chardonnay, therefore 2012 will be the last vintage of the Bourgogne Passetoutgrain. Since 2008, Francois has made three barrels of Meix Chavaux, which is orientated east/northeast. No known American importer.