The Lafon 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gains comes from a stand of tiny-berried, partly-diseased, middle-aged vines that he now manages for a friend. There are only three and a half barrels (one new), although he believes full production should be five or six. Iris and fresh lime in the nose lead to a sleek, polished, very subtly creamy palate with a vivid sense of bright citrus and tiny-berried phenolic grip. Juicy and refreshing, positively starched with chalky, saline, savory minerality, yet also subtly, persistently creamy, this finishes with impressive energy, positively shimmering with minerality and crystal clear fruit. While there is no relevant track record, this strikes me as a wine worthy of 7-10 years cellaring. The equally savory if less elegant 2005 exhibits oceanic depth, including a tidal finish - a profound and age-worthy gem. Like his neighbor Jean-Marc Roulot, Benoit Ente in Puligny, and a few others, Dominique Lafon obtained authorization to begin picking several days ahead of the official ban de vendange. He set his crew to work over the weekend, and was finished already on the 20th of September. The Perrieres, picked first, reached 13.8% alcohol, but all of the other wines weighed in at lower levels. Lafon insisted – and his wines testified – that the Chardonnay grapes were botrytis free, and he characterized the lees as excellent in quality and practiced “l(fā)ess settling than I did in the past.” That restraint – along with bright acids and pronounced minerality – makes for a richness that often expresses itself other than in creaminess. As these wines evolved, Lafon became increasingly enthusiastic about them, and I found them much more expressive on the eve of bottling than they had been in late 2007. Incidentally, the sickly vines in Lafon’s Desiree vineyard that have given so much bottled pleasure over the years gave their last in the beautifully refined, bittersweet, and for the vintage unusually delicate and creamy 2005. “It tastes as though the vines knew they were going to be pulled out,” was Lafon’s valediction. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040

Delightful scents reminiscent of freshly cut flowers make up the nose of the 2003 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain (white). A sexy, seductive wine, it sensually penetrates the mouth, deploying waves of super-soft pears, apples, and spices that linger throughout its lengthy finish. Texturally reminiscent of a goose-down pillow, this is a light to medium-bodied beauty to drink over the next 6 years. Importers: Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 625-2505, Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; and Beaune Imports, Berkeley Ca; tel. (510) 841-9815

The elegant, light to medium-bodied 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain offers crisp apple, lily, and spice aromas. This expressive, feminine and graceful wine has excellent balance, loads of flower-laced white fruits, as well as an angle-free, suave, and lengthy finish. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. Importers: Various including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 731-6644, and Beaune Imports.

If I were Lafon, I would have added the 2001 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain to the list of 2001s that are better than his 2000s. This wine, none of which comes to the United States through the estate’s importers of record, displays spices, pears, and white flowers in its nose. Its floral, mineral-laced, pear-imbued flavor profile is sublimely elegant. Medium-bodied, pure, revealing exceptional definition, this rich, silky-textured wine is the epitome of refinement. Supple hints of lemon can be detected in its lengthy finish. Projected maturity: now-2009. Dominique Lafon is on fire, in a zone, on top of his game. He’s never made better wines, and he improves with each passing vintage. Importers: Various including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel: (617) 731-6644; Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; (212) 625-2505; and Beaune Imports

The fresh apple-scented 2000 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain is a feminine, medium to full-bodied wine. Angle-free and lush, it reveals toast, raspberries, candied pears, and apples in its layered character. Projected maturity: now-2010. Importers: Various including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 731-6644, and Beaune Imports.