If I were Lafon, I would have added the 2001 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain to the list of 2001s that are better than his 2000s. This wine, none of which comes to the United States through the estate’s importers of record, displays spices, pears, and white flowers in its nose. Its floral, mineral-laced, pear-imbued flavor profile is sublimely elegant. Medium-bodied, pure, revealing exceptional definition, this rich, silky-textured wine is the epitome of refinement. Supple hints of lemon can be detected in its lengthy finish. Projected maturity: now-2009. Dominique Lafon is on fire, in a zone, on top of his game. He’s never made better wines, and he improves with each passing vintage. Importers: Various including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel: (617) 731-6644; Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; (212) 625-2505; and Beaune Imports