I was immensely impressed with Lafon's extremely spicy, toasty, white/yellow fruit-scented Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain. This boisterous, medium-to-full-bodied, opulently-textured, yet gorgeously refined wine is broad, rich, and impressively concentrated. Its harmonious, complex, and layered flavor profile reveals white peaches, flowers, stones, and hints of tropical fruits. It will be at its best between 2002 and 2007. Importer: Ex Cellars, Boston, MA; tel (617) 876-5105.