Lafon only produced one and a half barrels of 1998 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain, whereas other vintages have given the estate up to six barrels. Aromatically revealing ripe tropical fruits, this light to medium-bodied, elegant, and fresh wine is well-balanced and detailed. Flavors of white fruits can be found in its satiny, feminine personality. Projected maturity: now-2006. Importer: Ex Cellars, Boston, MA; tel (617) 876-5105.