A blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, matured in a combination of demi-muids and concrete tanks, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Empire is supple, creamy and lush, loaded with ripe cherries and stone fruit, with a subtle kiss of vanilla. It's less obviously tannic than the Terre d'Ancetre bottling, with better balance and more harmony. Top-notch stuff.

The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Empire is dark-fruited and extracted, with plentiful tannins and ample structure. Medium to full-bodied, it's built for cellaring, like the other cuvées at this address. Concentrated black cherries and plums meet peppery spices, then finish rich and velvety in feel.

The same assemblage as the Trilogies bottling, with a similar élevage but from different lieux-dits (Croix de Bois and les Saumades, in this case), the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Empire is darker fruited, with bold black cherry notes. Full-bodied, silky and rich, it's slightly firmer and deeper, with a bit more aging potential and length.

Featuring attractive notes of cola, dried spices and plummy fruit, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Empire is the only one of the Fontavin cuvées I had any reservations about. It's full-bodied, concentrated and reasonably tannic, then finishes on a chewy, velvety note. Give it a couple of years to soften, then drink it over the next decade.

All three of the Fontavin Chateauneufs demand cellaring. The 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Empire is firmly tannic but boasts mouthwatering aromas and flavors of cherries, red berries and plenty of spice. This traditional blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre was vinified and aged solely in concrete.