In top years, Cady bottles a super-selection, and his 2004 Cuvee Volupte Selection de Grains Nobles lives up to its name. Smelling of chamomile, honey, white raisin, and truffle, it saturates the palate with rich and viscous yet pure and delicate essence of honey, quince jelly, marzipan, and white raisin. In the finish, hints of smoky pungency and citrus rind bitterness offer counterpoint as well as a reminder of the wine’s botrytis origins. Philippe Cady is an excellent source for Coteaux du Layon values vinified entirely in tank, and generally available in a range of vintages – indeed, some of his outstanding 2002s can still be found in both the French and U.S. markets.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29