Domaine Cady Cuvee Volupte Selection de Grains Nobles

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Still in tank when I tasted it, the Cady 2007 Cuvee Volupte Selection de Grains Nobles features salt-tinged peach, strawberry, and quince preserves mingled with pineapple, Persian melon, and grapefruit in a luscious, viscous yet buoyant display of real ennoblement that preserves sufficient acidity to keep a clean finishing edge. It should be lovely to follow for at least the next 10 years. I was sligthtly disappointed with Philippe Cady’s collection of 2009s – tasted from tank – and unfortunately could not take the time to taste his finished 2008s. But while neither truly noble rot nor good balance came easily on the Coteaux du Layon in 2009, Cady’s Chenins remain on the whole outstanding values in genuinely nobly sweet wine.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29