Domaine Buisson Charles Les Boucheres, Meursault 1er Cru, France

碧松查爾斯酒莊布奇園（默爾索一級園）白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：646

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru les Boucheres has a more expressive bouquet that Buisson-Charles's other crus at the moment: lime, freshly sliced pear and nectarine "zooming" out of the glass here. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, very good weight in the mouth, with hints of orange peel and spice toward the composed, elegant finish. This is one of the domaine's best 2013s.

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Bouches-Cheres comes from 0.5 hectares of vine owned by the domaine in the vineyard of Les Boucheres, though Patrick has opted for the archaic spelling of the word. It has a tightly knit bouquet with scents of white flowers and a hint of nectarine and wild mint coming through with aeration. The palate is well balanced with an attractive fatness like the Les Cras. There is certainly very good fruit concentration here, with plenty of spice developing more and more on the finish as it opens in the glass. This is very fine, although the Les Charmes '11 has a little more verve. Drink 2016-2024. Importers: Vintner Select, www.vintnerselect.com, Cincinnati, OH; Milton Road Trading Corp, LLC, www.miltonroadtrading.com, Napa, CA; Scott Paul Wines, www.scottpaul.com, Portland, OR; Martine-s Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA; Import Wines, Middleton, WI, Old World Importing, Inc., www.oldworldimporting.com, Eagle, CO. Also available in the UK from Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, Latimer Vintners, www.latimervintners.com, and Roberson Wine, www.roberson.co.uk and Anthony Sarjeant.

The Buisson-Charles 2007 Meursault Les Boucheres – whose seven barrels represent nearly a doubling of production – displays honeyed richness to accompany its creaminess of texture. Lightly toasted wheat, hazelnut and almond; fresh peach; and elusive floral essences and mineral shadings combine for a ravishing aromatic display, caressing palate, and refined, nuanced, and hauntingly long finish. This plays more to the soothing, seductive side of Meursault, and less in the direction of dynamics one finds in the Gouttes d’Or. I expect it, too, to be well worth following for a dozen or more years. Catherine and Patrick Essa’s new reception, crush, and storage facilities are now completed and they have expanded through control of significant additional acreage in Les Boucheres and Gouttes d’Or. Patrick Essa's approach (like that of his father-in-law Michel Buisson) seemed ideal for restraining any over-the-top tendencies of vintage 2006, but the 2007s here are also very successful, if slightly less obviously imposing. Readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 180 for further details on the approach taken at this under-rated estate that produces consistently age-worthy Meursault. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300

There are four barrels’ worth (one new) of Buisson-Charles 2006 Meursault Les Boucheres (although, thanks to contracts, that quantity will soon double). White peach, toasted grain and almond usher in a palate of formidable density and overall concentration, subtle creaminess, yet also elegance, dynamic, and refinement. There is a Chablis-like meat broth aspect here, and a long, piquantly nutty, brightly citric finish. I would not hesitate to hold this for 12-15 years. The estate of Michel Buisson – whose son-in-law Patrick Essa now takes the lead – crafts white Burgundies for the Riesling or Chenin-lover, offering clarity, refreshment, and minerality yet not stinting on richness or structure, and wines whose track record in the cellar is among the best of any Chardonnay-based wines in the world. Slow, vertical pressing, unhurried fermentation, largely non-new barrels passive lees contact (i.e. no stirring), and late (unfined, and usually lightly-filtered) bottling figure in the Buisson regimen. Although production is very small, some additional acreage will come on line (along with a completely renovated cellar) beginning in 2008. Predictably – and even though picking did not commence until September 22 – the 2006s here did not sacrifice clarity, refreshment, or mineral dimensions to the vintage’s ripeness or botrytis, and arrived at 13-13.25% alcohol. A portion of village Meursault tinged by rot and at 14% potential alcohol was sold off. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300