Brusset's top wine is the 2016 Gigondas Les Secrets de Montmirail, a 60-40 blend of Grenache and Syrah from just three small terraces high in the Dentelles, with the Syrah component aged in wood. It's cedary and vanilla-scented, but those qualities are matched by concentrated black cherries. Full-bodied, plush and loaded with soft tannins, it picks up lovely notes of baking spices, cracked pepper and licorice on the long finish. Ideally, give this a couple of years in the cellar. Some might consider this too modern or international, but it's just so darn delicious.