The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers has a refined bouquet with a little more perfume and mineralité than the Maltroie. The palate is quite racy on the entry with lime and Granny Smith apples, very saline in the mouth and there is decent weight on the tightly wound finish. It will need two or three years in bottle to really show its mettle, but the potential is there.

The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru les Vergers comes from a 0.33 hectare parcel and sees around 25% new oak. It has an attractive brioche and hot buttered toast bouquet that is well defined and focused. The palate is well balanced, more understated than some of Colin’s other premier crus, but is focused and elegant with blood orange and tangerine lingering on the aftertaste. Drink this over the next decade.

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers offers a cheeky hint of aniseed on the nose that gains intensity in the glass – generous and lively. The palate is fresh and lively on the entry with orange zest, pineapple and a touch of spice. This is quite a complex Chassagne-Montrachet with much better tension on the finish than the Maltroie. Drink now-2022. Bruno Colin is the son of Michel Colin, who retired in 2003 and split the domaine between his two sons. There are approximately 8 hectares of vine, including a healthy supply of old vine material. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524 and also through Goedhuis & Co. (UK)

Colin’s 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers comes across as intensely perfumed and exotic in this vintage. White flowers, lychee, spices and lemon zest are some of the nuances that emerge from the glass. Despite the wine’s overt aromas and flavors, the mineral components are very much in evidence. The medium-bodied style shows the more refined side of the village. This is a fascinating and intriguing wine from Bruno Colin. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Bruno Colin reported that in 2010 his yields were down 10-15%, but adds some of his oldest plots were hit even harder, and came in 25-30% lower than normal. Overall, this is a solid set of wines, with plenty of vintage and site-specific character. The Bourgogne, St. Aubin Le Charmois and Chassagne villages were bottled before the 2011 harvest, while the rest of the wines were bottled in March 2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 299-2600, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524