White peach, lemon, and salt spray along with a crustacean note in the nose of Colin's 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers all put me somewhat in mind of Chablis. This displays more textural richness than several wines in the present collection and a satisfying sense of ripeness; and while its finish turns decided stony a bit of the savory salinity promised on the nose stays with it along with the peach ripeness. Colin opines that the more adamant expression of minerality is typical for this site, and in general for the Chassagne vineyards that are nearest to Puligny and Saint-Aubin. This should be well worth following for at least 4-5 years and will I suspect have even more complex periods.
Bruno Colin continues vinify his share of inheritance (modestly supplemented by contract fruit) in the family's ancient cellars, which now permit his wines longer time assembled in tank and later bottling. He says he did very little batonnage in 2007 (even less in 2006) and is treating his wines to higher levels of sulfur as a further precaution against pre-mature oxidation. (Some of these wines, incidentally, continue to be bottled under the Colin-Deleger label.)
Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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