Agathe Bursin Riesling Zinnkoepfle Vendanges Tardives, Alsace Grand Cru, France

阿加特酒莊任庫(kù)普勒雷司令晚收半干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1883

Shriveled but healthy berries dominated the crop for Bursin’s 2011 Riesling Zinnkoepfle Vendange Tardive, which displays a greenhouse-like aromatic amalgam of leafing and flowering things and a strikingly lime sorbet-like, green tea-infused palate. Like many nobly sweet wines of its vintage, this lush elixir is rather obviously sweet, to the point where nuance is missing or covered-over in the finish. Still, it’s impressively rich and texturally alluring as well as complex until one gets to the finish. I would suggest following it through 2020. Agathe Bursin’s sector of Alsace was one of those cursed by frost on top of poor flowering in 2010, so that she got only half of what she considers a normal crop. Even so, Bursin didn’t begin picking it until October 10, her latest-ever commencement of harvest. Not only did the flavors need to ripen, acids also needed to drop on the vine because Bursin was determined on principle not to de-acidify. In 2011, she began picking on September 1. Like many growers, though, she ended up with a number of nobly sweet bottlings from 2011, and with highly variable success. The one Bursin wine that I completely don’t “get” though, is a blend of Sylvaner, Riesling and Pinot Gris from the Zinnkoepfle called “L’Esprit de Calcaire.” She matures the wine in barrique, which then dominates its aromas and dries out its finish. Importer: A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Honeydew melon and herbal distillates, quince preserves, marzipan, and nutmeg sweetly scent and lusciously coat the palate from Bursin’s 2009 Riesling Zinnkoepfle Vendange Tardive, lending a liqueur-like and confectionary aura and a finish that is somewhat sticky and lacking in sufficient freshness or acidity, I fear, to keep from becoming cloying after the first couple of sips. I don’t doubt though that one could hold this for 15 or more years, perhaps past the point where its sweetness begins to subside. Agathe Bursin continues to fearlessly experiment as well as to enjoy a strong legion of fans. I skipped a few of the less-expensive wines in her line-up during my recent vintage due to a shortage of time. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Candied lemon and tangerine rind in the nose of Bursin’s 2008 Riesling Zinnkoepfle Vendange Tardive – accompanied by peach preserves and a fusil smokiness – have their bittersweet counterpart on a generously juicy palate. Fusil and zesty notes persist in a finish of grip and refreshment, if a bit of phenolic roughness and extraneous sweetness. Agathe Bursin continues to fearlessly experiment as well as to enjoy a strong legion of fans. I skipped a few of the less-expensive wines in her line-up during my recent vintage due to a shortage of time. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Ironically, whereas her sweet 2006 Zinnkoepfle Riesling was accidentally not declared as V.T., Bursin’s 2007 Riesling Zinnkoepfle Vendange Tardive ended up fermenting to just 28 grams of residual sugar, and as a result tastes drier than a great many non-V.T. Rieslings. Lovely aromatic and palate concentration of brown spices and candied citrus rind mingle with stony and alkaline mineral notes, the sweetness seeing to it that the wine does not come off austere. An invigorating sizzle of fresh ginger and citrus zest caps the wine’s impressively persistent finish. I anticipate this being worth following for 15-20 years. Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29