Candied lemon and tangerine rind in the nose of Bursin’s 2008 Riesling Zinnkoepfle Vendange Tardive – accompanied by peach preserves and a fusil smokiness – have their bittersweet counterpart on a generously juicy palate. Fusil and zesty notes persist in a finish of grip and refreshment, if a bit of phenolic roughness and extraneous sweetness. Agathe Bursin continues to fearlessly experiment as well as to enjoy a strong legion of fans. I skipped a few of the less-expensive wines in her line-up during my recent vintage due to a shortage of time. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29