Honeydew melon and herbal distillates, quince preserves, marzipan, and nutmeg sweetly scent and lusciously coat the palate from Bursin’s 2009 Riesling Zinnkoepfle Vendange Tardive, lending a liqueur-like and confectionary aura and a finish that is somewhat sticky and lacking in sufficient freshness or acidity, I fear, to keep from becoming cloying after the first couple of sips. I don’t doubt though that one could hold this for 15 or more years, perhaps past the point where its sweetness begins to subside.
Agathe Bursin continues to fearlessly experiment as well as to enjoy a strong legion of fans. I skipped a few of the less-expensive wines in her line-up during my recent vintage due to a shortage of time.
A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
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