Companhia das Quintas is the umbrella name for a company that has bought up several Quintas in various regions. It is headquartered at Quinta da Romeira in Bucelas, a small but historic appellation once a favorite of English Kings and Thomas Jefferson, among others. The Quinta itself, about 10km from Lisbon, has roots dating back to the early 18th Century. This 2005 MORGADO DE STA. CATHERINA (QUINTA DA ROMEIRA) was flat out impressive on my first taste, good, but less so on my second. It is 100% Arinto (the varietal that rules in Bucelas). It was raised in new French oak for eight months, which hardly shows. It has a penetrating, crisp finish. Its parts are well integrated, and the aromatics are rather nice, too. Drink now-2009.Importer for Morgado Sta. Catherina: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway,N.J.; tel: (973) 642-0044.

The 2004 Branco “Morgado de Sta. Catherina” (Quinta da Romeira) is a single varietal (Arinto), although that is not listed on the front label. It is flavorful and beautifully balanced, with a lingering finish and good focus. Although it is Arinto, like its sibling, the 2005 “Prova Regia” reviewed here, it is classier and more refined, with a longer and more complex finish. It has also benefitted from the extra year in the cellar. The bouquet has some nuances of tropical fruits and is very pleasing. Drink now-2010. Founded in 1999 and formally registered as “Sociedade Agricola da Quinta do Romeira de Cima,” this company trades under the umbrella name Companhia das Quintas (literally, “the Estates Company”), signifying its acquisition and ownership of six Quintas in various regions, the latest acquisition being Quinta de Pancas. As the formal name implies, they are headquartered at Quinta do Romeira, an estate with roots going back to the early 17th century.Importer for Cado: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 667-0750. Importer for Prova Regia and Morgado Sta. Catherina: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ.; tel. (973) 642-0044. Importer for all other wines: Admiral Wine Imports, Irvington, NJ; tel. (973) 857-2100