Deeply colored, with a hot, alcoholic aroma, powerful flavors of cassis and dark plum, and hints of mint. Needs some time to settle down. Best from 2010 through 2012. -KM

The 2004 Sousao is bright, with cherry notes around the edges, which are softened by oak. There is nice structure and a firm backbone that gives it a more serious demeanor. It is an elegant and pleasant, if not terribly complex wine, and a fair value. Drink 2007-2012. This producer turns out a bevy of value-priced wines, both as single varietals and in somewhat unusual combinations (like Pinot Noir/Touriga Nacional). The owner says, “We look for complementary combinations, and in this particular case, by marrying the Pinot Noir with the Touriga Nacional, the velvet and smoothness of the Pinot softened the tannins of Touriga and on the other hand the Touriga Nacional contributed with a good structure, body and colour to the blend.” Some seem rather eccentric, but the best of them have rather good structure for their price ranges and offer fair values, as the winery has a commendable desire to provide something more than inexpensive fruit bombs.Importers: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155; Vintage Trading, Waterbury, CT; tel. (203) 926-0894