Grande Maison Cuvee des Anges, Monbazillac, France

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Thierry Depres offers a sensational value and introductory opportunity by bottling his 2005 Monbazillac Cuvee des Anges of Semillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle, organically grown and selectively harvested like all of his wines, but seeing no oak. With as much so-called “dessert wine” as there is out there that in effect consists of raisin squeezings or messy accidents of nature commemorated in bottle, I am convinced relatively few wine lovers have actually smelled noble rot that did its almost magical work of concentration without leaving behind smudgy finger prints. Toasted brioche, musk, white truffle, gardenia, honey and candied citrus rind waft from a glass of this self-styled angelic cuvee. In the mouth, I bet you’ll be amazed, because this wine is rich, creamy and expansive yet practically delicate, and sweetness is actually the last thing that will occur to you as you let it reveal its citrus, tropical fruit, animal, and nobly fungal facets. The long finish is only very subtly sweet, with chalk, bitter-sweet candied citrus, and musky, meaty notes that will convince you not just to take the next sip, but to explore the many possibilities for this wine at table over the coming 2-3 years. An open bottle will hold up well for more than a week, so what are you scared of? And if you think this is good, wait until you taste the barrel-fermented wines from Grande Maison and Monbazillac’s other two top practitioners!At least three estates in Monbazillac – Domaine de la Borie Blanche, Grande Maison, and Tirecul la Graviere – are crafting nobly sweet wine that can compete with the best of Sauternes. More attention needs to be paid to this appellation – but of course more consumers need to be indoctrinated into the mysteries, versatility, and seductive pleasures of these and similar “slow wines.”Peter Vezan Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93