The 2012 de Malle has a pleasant, light, quince-scented bouquet that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with a lively bead of acidity that runs straight through the precise, honeyed fruit. This is a sophisticated, delightful de Malle that should be one of the successes of the vintage.

The 2011 de Malle has a satisfyingly delineated bouquet with fresh pineapple and white peach aromas that is more a case of finesse than power. The palate has a lovely coconut-tinged, viscous entry with a fine thread of acidity. The oak is rather dominant towards the finish, although it has decent fruit to maintain balance. This may offer more personality after bottling, and it has good potential. Drink 2014-2025.

The bouquet on the 2010 de Malle demands some coaxing from the glass, but it is worth waiting for, as there is wonderful minerality waiting to surface. The palate is very well-balanced, with good acidity and botrytis. This is a clean, crisp, precise Sauternes that revivifies the palate, ready for the next sip. De Malle has produced one of its finest vintages to date. Bravo!

Pale, well protected against oxidation by Sulphur Dioxide, seems more fluid because of that, but well balanced and lovely aftertaste. Will show better in six months time. Drink 2018-2030. (16.5 points)