The 2008 Brut Premier Cru Ivoire et Ebene wraps around the palate with serious depth. A cool, introspective wine, the 2008 is marked by serious vintage character. The Ivoire et Ebene is 60% Chardonnay (vinified in oak), 20% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier. All the elements are beautifully balanced from start to finish. The oak adds volume and richness, but is better integrated than in the Aubry de Humbert. A vibrant, tense finish rounds things out very nicely. This is another fabulous wine from Aubry. Disgorgement date: March 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Aubry crafts some of the most exciting and distinctive wines in Champagne. This small, family-run estate is one of the few properties in the region to use Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau – traditional grapes seldom seen today. There is a purity to the fruit at Aubry that is striking. The wines typically see very low dosage of just 2-3 grams. The truth is these wines don’t need much. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique, compelling Champagnes.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2005 Brut Ivoire et Ebene is better than the La Nombre d’Or Campanae Veteres Vites in this vintage. It is a pure, crystalline Champagne endowed with gorgeous crisp pears, apples and white flowers, all of which flow effortlessly from the glass. I especially like the energy and freshness here. The blend is 60% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier. Ivoire et Ebene is the only Aubry Champagne aged in oak. Disgorged June 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Aubry is one of the most intriguing producers in Champagne because the wines are so expressive. Maybe it is the inclusion of Champagne’s ancient varieties in some of these blends, or the low atmosphere style of some of the wines, or maybe it’s just the personality of the Aubry brothers themselves, but I always find so many admirable qualities in these wines.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2003 Brut Ivoire et Ebene is simply beautiful. It is also noticeably fresher than the Veteres Vites in this vintage, perhaps because of a greater percentage of Chardonnay. This finely sculpted, chiseled Champagne possesses tons of balance in its fruit, with pretty floral notes that ring out on the finish. The oak adds volume and depth but is integrated quite nicely. Ivoire et Ebene is a barrel fermented cuvee of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Meunier, all from the village of Jouy. Here the Aubry brothers employ a low-pressure style (4 atmospheres as compared to the more conventional 6 or so). Dosage is just 2 grams per liter. Disgorged in February, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. I was deeply impressed with these wines from Aubry. To be sure, these are not the most immediate Champagnes readers will come across; rather they require a measure of time and patience. For those who are ready to experience something new and different, an array of compelling Champagnes awaits. Aubry farms 17 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards in Jouy, Pargny and Villedomange. The estate’s Sable series are wines made in the lower-atmosphere style and that feature Fromenteau, Petit Meslier and Arbanne, ancient varieties in these parts that today are nearly forgotten. Simply put, this is one of the most impressive ranges I tasted this year, and the wines are highly recommended.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300