The 2003 Brut Ivoire et Ebene is simply beautiful. It is also noticeably fresher than the Veteres Vites in this vintage, perhaps because of a greater percentage of Chardonnay. This finely sculpted, chiseled Champagne possesses tons of balance in its fruit, with pretty floral notes that ring out on the finish. The oak adds volume and depth but is integrated quite nicely. Ivoire et Ebene is a barrel fermented cuvee of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Meunier, all from the village of Jouy. Here the Aubry brothers employ a low-pressure style (4 atmospheres as compared to the more conventional 6 or so). Dosage is just 2 grams per liter. Disgorged in February, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. I was deeply impressed with these wines from Aubry. To be sure, these are not the most immediate Champagnes readers will come across; rather they require a measure of time and patience. For those who are ready to experience something new and different, an array of compelling Champagnes awaits. Aubry farms 17 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards in Jouy, Pargny and Villedomange. The estate’s Sable series are wines made in the lower-atmosphere style and that feature Fromenteau, Petit Meslier and Arbanne, ancient varieties in these parts that today are nearly forgotten. Simply put, this is one of the most impressive ranges I tasted this year, and the wines are highly recommended.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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