The 2002 Ivoire et Ebene is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir aged briefly in French oak barrels. The wine caresses the palate with waves of fruit in a rich, explosive style. There is plenty of density, and the oak is used well, but this is a big Champagne that desperately needs food. It is another gorgeous effort from Aubry. This bottle was disgorged in January, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. These new releases from the Aubry brothers were among the most impressive I tasted. This small, family-run domaine is distinguished by several factors; among them a high percentage of Pinot Meunier in the wines, as well as the presence of Petit Arbanne, Meslier, Fromenteau, all ancient Champagne varieties that today are all but forgotten. The house produces essentially two styles of wines. The Nombre d’Or series are made in the lower-atmosphere Cremant-style. These bottlings feature the ancient grapes of Champagne and see low dosage. The Classic series is made with the more typical 5-6 atmospheres using the traditional varieties and bottled with higher dosage. Aubry makes complex, somewhat cerebral wines that require the taster’s full attention. Those who are willing to take the time to listen to these wines will be amply rewarded with a superb drinking experience.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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