Caves Alianca Reserva, Bairrada, Portugal

阿蓮卡酒莊珍藏紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：7702

The 2009 RESERVA DAO is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Jaen. Following on the bargain priced ’08, this is the conclusion of a nice one-two punch here, with dirt cheap prices. The ’08 may have a bit more steel, while this has a somewhat fruitier demeanor. They are pretty close. This is fresh, reasonably bright and persistent in flavor. It should age better than most wines in this category, too, and it always seems like real wine, with reasonable structure and persistence of flavor on the finish. Drink now-2017. This big winery has an array of inexpensive products from various grapes in the region (as well as from various regions) that can be a bit bewildering. It is often difficult to tell what the significance is of the various brands on wines that look quite similar and create some confusion, which is a marketing issue largely, the legacy of the company deciding to keep its existing brands (Reserva Dao and Particular) when it acquired Quinta da Garrida in 1999. Although not all are reviewed this issue, a quick overview of the line from Dao (or the regional wines, Beiras) is worthwhile. Note that all of the wines are all produced at the Estate. The “Vista” brand, not reviewed this issue, is marketed largely on the grape—Touriga Nacional or Tinta Roriz. The Quinta da Garrida branded wines are all marketed as single quinta wines, although I am told by International Director Mario Neves that the Reserva Dao and Particular “could be now considered single estate wines because all grapes are produced in the Quinta da Garrida Estate.” At the time Garrida was acquired (1999), the Reserva Dao (reviewed this issue) and Particular were made “using selected wines from high quality producers in the region,” says International Director Mario Neves. Today, those brands have “small differences in terms of the final blends and bottle aging (Quinta da Garrida and Quinta da Garrida Reserva are older).” The grapes for Particular and Reserva have a common base of 80-90% of the wine with Garrida, according to Neves. The Reserva Dao and regular Garrida Tinto see only a small portion of oak aging and have broader blends (particularly including Jaen). The Garrida Reserva and Particular have somewhat longer aging in oak and use only Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Ultimately, at least some of that seems a bit strained and unnecessarily confusing.NOTE TO TRANSCRIBERS: ALIANCA IS NOT CALLED CAVES ALIANCA ANY MORE EVERYTHING PUBLISHED IN 2009 AND GOING FORWARD SHOULD BE LIKE THIS: ALIANCAImporter: Tri-Vin Imports, Mount Vernon, N.Y.; tel?(914) 664-3155; for the Garrida wines: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

The 2008 RESERVA DAO is 30% each of Tinta Roriz and Jaen, with 40% Touriga Nacional for the rest. This is quite a nice performance this year at a very fine bargain price. It seems like a steal. With juicy fruit and a little steel underneath, it is nicely structured, possessed of a crisp finish and some power. This seems like one of the better vintages for this wine. It will be at its best now and in the next couple of years, but it should hold decently. As between this and the ’09, I had a minor preference for this slightly steelier wine, but I won’t be surprised if many prefer the 2009. Drink now-2017. This big winery has an array of inexpensive products from various grapes in the region (as well as from various regions) that can be a bit bewildering. It is often difficult to tell what the significance is of the various brands on wines that look quite similar and create some confusion, which is a marketing issue largely, the legacy of the company deciding to keep its existing brands (Reserva Dao and Particular) when it acquired Quinta da Garrida in 1999. Although not all are reviewed this issue, a quick overview of the line from Dao (or the regional wines, Beiras) is worthwhile. Note that all of the wines are all produced at the Estate. The “Vista” brand, not reviewed this issue, is marketed largely on the grape—Touriga Nacional or Tinta Roriz. The Quinta da Garrida branded wines are all marketed as single quinta wines, although I am told by International Director Mario Neves that the Reserva Dao and Particular “could be now considered single estate wines because all grapes are produced in the Quinta da Garrida Estate.” At the time Garrida was acquired (1999), the Reserva Dao (reviewed this issue) and Particular were made “using selected wines from high quality producers in the region,” says International Director Mario Neves. Today, those brands have “small differences in terms of the final blends and bottle aging (Quinta da Garrida and Quinta da Garrida Reserva are older).” The grapes for Particular and Reserva have a common base of 80-90% of the wine with Garrida, according to Neves. The Reserva Dao and regular Garrida Tinto see only a small portion of oak aging and have broader blends (particularly including Jaen). The Garrida Reserva and Particular have somewhat longer aging in oak and use only Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Ultimately, at least some of that seems a bit strained and unnecessarily confusing.NOTE TO TRANSCRIBERS: ALIANCA IS NOT CALLED CAVES ALIANCA ANY MORE EVERYTHING PUBLISHED IN 2009 AND GOING FORWARD SHOULD BE LIKE THIS: ALIANCAImporter: Tri-Vin Imports, Mount Vernon, N.Y.; tel?(914) 664-3155; for the Garrida wines: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

Earthy wine, with red plum acidity and a dry edge. It has some soft juiciness, the wine’s natural austerity leavened by some ripe fruit in the aftertaste. ——R.V.(11/1/2011)—— 86

The 2007 RESERVA is a blend (Touriga Nacional, Jaen and Tinta Roriz) from Dao. This year’s version shows modest mid-palate concentration, but some elegance and quite a bit of grip on the finish, giving it a pointed, but laid back appeal. It flattens quickly and has some harshness on the finish early on. Consider it at peak now. Drink now-2012. Caves Alianca and its sister winery Bacalhoa provide some pretty decent values in this report. Just remember that these and most entry level wines hit peak fast and usually need to be drunk on the younger and fresher side for best results.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; importer for Quinta da Garrida only: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

The 2006 RESERVA Dao is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Jaen. Smoothly textured, it has a little brightness around the edges and good flavors, laced with black cherry notes. It is easygoing and friendly, with just a little intensity on the finish with air. It is a pretty nice deal for its very modest price point in this difficult vintage. Its sibling, the “Particular” reviewed this report, seems a bit fuller bodied, but this seems a bit fresher, less oaky and spicier. Pick ‘em. Drink now-2011. Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; importer for Quinta da Rigodeira only: Mega Wine, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (916) 686-2144