There is a little more effect from the élevage of 21 months in French barrique in the 2014 Carmelo Rodero Reserva, but there is good balance and freshness, which makes it a powerful but harmonious red blend with fine tannins and a remarkable finish. Like many of the wines here, the Tempranillo is blended with some 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 46,521 bottles were filled in February 2017.

The 2011 Carmelo Rodero Reserva also contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, which helps to contain alcohol levels and adds acidity, something especially important in a warm vintage like 2011. There are plenty of balsamic aromas of cigar ash, quality wood, spices and ripe cherries, black rather than red. The palate is powerful but has good balance, polished, fine tannins and very good acidity. It's tasty and long, very good for the year. 43,000 bottles produced.

The 2010 Carmelo Rodero Reserva contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is closed for business and requires energetic swirling to get the aromas going, so it would benefit from decanting in advance. Once you manage to wake it up, there are minty aromas and notes of peat with a lactic tone. The palate is medium to full-bodied, juicy and tasty, with abundant, fine-grained tannins that need time to calm down, but with the stuffing to do it in harmony. All of that in an XL way. Drink now-2017. I tasted some heavyweight bottles from Carmelo Rodero and was generally impressed with what I saw. Importer: Quigley Fine Wines, Oceanside, CA; tel. (619) 501-8555, www.quigleyfinewines.com

The 2009 Carmelo Rodero Reserva is also blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, but the fruit is from 40-year-old vines and aged for 21 months in new French oak. That oak is nicely integrated into the fruit but will need another 12 to 24 months in bottle to mellow and open. The palate is medium-bodied with a satin-like texture, layers of sweet dark cherry and black currant pastille fruit that leads to a harmonious, poised finish. Excellent. Drink 2012-2017. Importer: Quigley Fine Wines. www.quigleyfinewines.com

The 2004 Carmelo Rodero Reserva is composed of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from 35+-year-old vines. It was aged for 21 months in a mix of new and used French and American oak. Deep purple in color, it reveals toasty notes along with fragrant violets, scorched earth, mineral, and blackberry aromas. This leads to a full-bodied wine with well-integrated oak, layers of spicy black fruits, enough structure to evolve for 3-4 years, as well as some finesse. This lengthy, pure wine should provide pleasure through 2025. Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 237-0077