The 2010 Lagrein is a fresh, vinous wine best suited to near-term drinking. It shows lovely depth and defintion in its sweet red berries, pomegranate, licorice and flowers. This is a bright, vibrant style that is undeniably appealing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. It's hard to go wrong with any of these wines from Tramin, one of the best and most consistent wineries in Italy. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2009 Lagrein?is a delicious mouth filling wine loaded with dark red fruit, licorice and spices. Some rough edges remain, but that is a relatively small criticism at this level. Paired with hearty foods, the Lagrein will deliver plenty of sheer pleasure. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. This is a terrific set of entry-level wines from Tramin. The whites see only steel and do not undergo malolactic fermentation. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2008 Lagrein is bold and racy. Dark fruit, sweet herbs and spices all come together in this juicy, harmonious wine. The Lagrein was aged in neutral large oak casks, which allows the fruit to emerge with plenty of character. This is a terrific Lagrein for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. This is a brilliant set of entry-level wines from Tramin, a cooperative that boasts more than a century of winemaking history. The whites are aged in stainless steel, while the reds are aged either in whole or part in oak. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2007 Lagrein, on the other hand, is packed with varietal dark raspberries, blackberries, herbs and spices. Made in an accessible style, it is a notably refined Lagrein at this price point. The Lagrein is partly aged in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. I was particularly impressed with the value-priced wines I tasted from Tramin this year. Tramin is a cooperative with an astonishing 290 members and 575 acres under vine, dimensions which are virtually unheard of in Italy. Coops are fairly common in this part of Italy, and that arrangement is in no way a reflection on quality, a point these wines make quite eloquently. Tramin’s first vintage goes all the way back to 1899, a lineage few wineries today can match. All of these bottlings come from the local DOCs. The whites are aged exclusively in stainless steel, while the reds see some oak. Simply put, this is a beautiful set of entry-level wines. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620