The 2009 Lagrein?is a delicious mouth filling wine loaded with dark red fruit, licorice and spices. Some rough edges remain, but that is a relatively small criticism at this level. Paired with hearty foods, the Lagrein will deliver plenty of sheer pleasure. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. This is a terrific set of entry-level wines from Tramin. The whites see only steel and do not undergo malolactic fermentation. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620