From one of the most challenging vintages of the 20th century, the 1958 Montrachet Grand Cru is better than it has any right to be! Wafting from the glass with aromas of golden orchard fruit, clear honey, candied citrus peel, toasted bread, stone fruit pits and iodine, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and elegantly muscular, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and chalky structuring extract. Tasted blind, I was reaching for a better (and a younger) vintage. Burgundy, however, is a region defined by surprises.