Starting off the reds, and smelling like a fresh Cotes du Rhone, the 2012 Clos de Gilroy (84% Grenache, 11.5% Syrah and 4.5% Mourvedre aged all in stainless steel) offers up delicious, jammy notes of black raspberry, licorice, black olive, violets and herbs to go with an exuberantly fruity, supple profile. Straight-up delicious, in a hard to resist, quaffable style, it should be consumed over the coming couple of years. Drink now-2016. Tel. (831) 425-4518; www.bonnydoonvineyard.com

The one-dimensional, light to medium ruby-colored 2004 Clos de Gilroy exhibits soft, fruity, raspberry and cherry aromas, but falls off on the palate. At best, it is a picnic-styled quaffer for uncritical drinking. Bonny Doon Vineyard, run by the irrepressible Randall Grahm, now produces nearly 400,000 cases of wine, yet it continues to cultivate an image of a small, boutique winery. Some of the wine world’s most innovative packaging is created by this estate, but, as I have written before, the quality in the bottle has declined from Bonny Doon’s glory years (in the mid-eighties) when Grahm was both a pioneer and a committed Rhone Ranger revolutionary. It now appears to be all about image and high production, resulting in somewhat innocuous offerings. Tel. (831) 425-3625