I have been an unabashed admirer of Bonny Doon's Clos de Gilroy since Randall Grahm began producing it. It has been a gloriously exuberant, deliciously hedonistic wine that would satisfy the masses if it were available in enormous quantities. The 1992 is gushing with berry fruit, exhibits a soft underbody, and a generally elegant, medium-bodied texture. Drink it before the summer of 1994.