The 2008 Envite Conclave Esencia is an unusual (for Rioja) blend of 65% Garnacha, 20% Tempranillo, and 15% Graciano barrel-fermented and aged for 25 months in new French oak. It offers up an earthy minerality, sandalwood, Asian spices, lilacs, a hint of balsamic, and black cherry. In the glass it displays a late-harvest character reminiscent of a confiture of black fruits. Underneath the layered fruit it contains enough acidity for balance, good volume, and a medium-long finish. Drink this atypical Rioja through 2020. Importer: F.L. Navarro, The Artisan Collection, Brooklyn, NY; Tel. (718) 596-0722

The 2006 Conclave Esencia is more dilute and less focused although it is a solid wine in a more difficult vintage.Importer: The Artisan Collection, New York, NY; tel. (212) 608-0722

The 2005 Conclave Esencia is a barrel-fermented blend of 50% Garnacha, 35% Tempranillo, and 15% Graciano. The wine spent 14 months in new French oak. Purple in color, it exhibits a complex perfume of pain grille, pencil lead, scorched earth, incense, blackberry and black cherry. Layered, spicy, and intensely flavored, this impeccably balanced Rioja will blossom with another 2-3 years of cellaring. Drink this lengthy effort from 2011 to 2020. Importer: The Artisan Collection, New York, NY; tel. (212) 608-0722