The ultra-red 2010 Gran Reserva had all the textbook aromas of a long development in barrel and bottle and the polished texture and resolved tannins the category is famous for, with the depth and clout of a great vintage. Exactly what you expect. 230,000 bottles produced.

If I liked the Reserva, the 2008 Gran Reserva could be even better, as it combines tertiary aromas with spices, hints of leather and balsamic nuances with notes of freshness in the shape of orange peel. The palate feels quite complete with good freshness and acidity that make it easy to drink and ideal for the table. Always a sure value in traditional Rioja. 460,000 bottles produced.

The 2006 Gran Reserva has had extended oak and bottle aging and is quite transparent with the character of the vintage, where the fruit is riper, black rather than red, and displaying a roasted character in the palate with very approachable tannins and supple flavors. Drink 2014-2016. This classical name now belongs to the Osborne group from Jerez, and still represents the pure traditional Rioja style. Following the tradition of past times they still offer some older vintages once they have acquired more complexity and are ready to drink. Imported by Evaton, Inc, Stamford, CT; tel. (203) 968-8220

The 2005 Gran Reserva is aged in French oak for a minimum of 24 months. It has a classic, hung game and leather-scented bouquet that is understated and demands coaxing from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a beguiling leather and licorice-tinged finish that is both languorous and refined. This is a very fine, very typical Gran Reserva. Drink now-2020. I tasted a trio of very commendable wines from Bodegas Montecillo. The winery was founded in 1874 in Fuenmayor and is presently owned by the Osborne Group. Winemaker Maria Martinez is at the helm and should be commended for producing exemplary wines that speak of their place with great clarity. Importer: William Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE, and Hayman, Barwell & Jones (UK)

The 2001 Gran Reserva displays that same lean house style while serving up enough sweet fruit to provide balance. Drink it over the next 5 years. Bodegas Montecillo is owned by the Osborne family. Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463