The 2008 Il Drappo (Nero d'Avola) opens with beguiling, delicate aromatics that lead to black cherries, dried flowers, tobacco and sweet spices. This is another relatively undertstated wine that is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. This is a solid set of wines from Benanti, although there are fewer thrilling wines this year than is often the case. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

The 2006 Il Drappo (Nero d’Avola) emerges from the glass with intensely perfumed red fruit, earthiness, licorice, tobacco and anise. Some of the more rustic qualities of Nero d’Avola come through in the wine, but there is more than enough intensity and roundness in the fruit to provide balance. This isn’t the most refined wine in the Benanti lineup, but it will be more than delicious with hearty fare. The length, refinement of the tannins and sense of harmony are all first-rate. Il Drappo is made from vineyards in Pachino, in the southeast of Sicily, considered one of the best spots on the island for Nero d’Avola. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Lamoremio that is already a touch forward and probably not built for the long haul. Still, it should drink beautifully for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Benanti is a reference-point producer for beautiful wines from the Etna and Pachino, two of Sicily’s most privileged spots. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with any of these new releases. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

The 2005 Il Drappo (Nero d’Avola) presents the gamut of aromas and flavors that are typical of this quirky, indigenous variety. Sweet, open aromatics lead to candied red fruits, smoke, earthiness and mint. The wine possesses notable inner perfume in a generous, soft-textured style, with pretty notes of sweetness that linger on the delicate finish. Despite the wine’s medium-bodied personality, there is also plenty of punch in the bold fruit flavors. This gorgeous wine should drink beautifully over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524