The 2004 Il Drappo presents the wilder, more animalistic side of the grape in its dark fruit, earthiness and herb flavors. On the palate it offers great elegance along with outstanding length, lovely overall balance and tons of personality. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

Here is a direct and refined Nero d’Avola with a fruity core of blueberry, raspberry and cassis. The wine seems virtually untouched by complicated winemaking or too much wood and lets the quality of its fruit shine through, ending with soft, velvety tannins. Fruit is sourced from a high-density vineyard near Siracusa.——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 91