The amber-hued 2004 Passito di Pantelleria Coste di Mueggen is an intense, richly-textured wine loaded with burnt sugar, dried figs, prunes, flowers, caramel, baking spices and minerals. This full-bodied, unctuous dessert wine is especially exuberant in 2004 and possesses a compelling, totally unique personality. The Coste di Mueggen is made from the indigenous Zibibbo grape. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

The 2002 Passito di Pantelleria Coste di Mueggen is one of the most unique sweet wines I have tasted in a long time. Made from dried Zibibbo, it exhibits unreal complexity in the layers of mint, sage, wild herbs and dried figs that flow onto the palate with superb elegance and grace. Though packed with flavor it never comes across as heavy-handed. It’s hard to fully describe this wine except to say that it is clearly in a league of its own. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012.Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524