Domaine Albert Morot Les Aigrots, Beaune Premier Cru, France

莫羅特酒莊愛格羅特（伯恩一級園）紅葡萄酒

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A cool, pure and distinctly earthy nose that is comprised of equally pretty and layered red berry fruit aromas. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the detailed and lightly mineral-inflected flavors that are delicious though the dryness displays by several of the wines in the range is a bit more pronounced here. While this should reward a few years of cellaring I would suggest drinking this for its youthful fruit as it risks drying out with extended aging.

Kirsch and spice aromas make way for the cherry and mineral flavors in this intense red. Shows tension and a slightly hard edge, with a finish that stretches out. Best from 2018 through 2028. 100 cases imported.

While there is a trace of reduction present it's not so strong that notes of ripe and earthy red berry fruit aromas cannot be detected. There is a velvety mouth feel to the mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that possess a beautifully seductive texture. The mouth coating finish is also a bit gassy which undoubtedly contributes to the firmly austere but complex finish.

The red 2011 Beaune 1er Cru Aigrots has an uncomplicated but pleasant bouquet with boysenberry, blackberry leaf and wild hedgerow that needs more vigor but is nicely defined. The palate is smooth and harmonious on the entry. This is not a complex Beaune but it retains decent balance even if the finish is very conservative and short. Drink now-2018. Albert Morot was a negociant for its first seven decades until they acquired a parcel of vines in 1890. The gloriously named Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry has been responsible for the wines since 2000, when his aunt (great-granddaughter of Albert Morot), Francoise Choppin, retired. Henceforth, they have concentrated on domaine-bottled wines. Traditionally they held back on the level of new oak, although this has crept up in recent vintages as well as longer elevage. Fruit is handpicked, bunches totally de-stemmed, and bottling done without fining or filtration. This was a solid set of 2011s with the exception of an under-performing Beaune Toussaints. Otherwise, the wines exhibited judicious winemaking, clean, fresh fruit, and poised finishes. While they did not elicit superlatives this time, I suspect that more benevolent vintages such as 2009 or 2010 may be worth investigating. For now, these 2011s represent fine Pinot Noirs that deserves another 12 to 18 months in bottle. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083 and through Berry Brothers & Rudd (UK)

The 2009 Beaune Aigrots is cool, inward and reticent. Tar, smoke, licorice and a host of dark aromas and flavors develop with time, adding considerable complexity and nuance. There is great depth in the glass, but also a bit of wildness that adds quite a bit of character. Ideally, readers should give the Aigrots another 2-3 years to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York City; tel. (212) 239-1275