The 2009 Beaune Aigrots is cool, inward and reticent. Tar, smoke, licorice and a host of dark aromas and flavors develop with time, adding considerable complexity and nuance. There is great depth in the glass, but also a bit of wildness that adds quite a bit of character. Ideally, readers should give the Aigrots another 2-3 years to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York City; tel. (212) 239-1275