Also impressive, the 2007 Pinot Noir Velvet Sisters’ dark ruby/purple-tinged color is followed by abundant aromas of pomegranates, blueberries, tart raspberries, underbrush, and an unmistakable blue fruit character that sets it apart from its siblings. With good underlying minerality and acidity, it should drink well for a decade. One of the best wineries in Sonoma, Hartford Family Winery, under the guidance of winemaker Jeff Mangalas, continues to fine tune an impressive portfolio of wines, all from cool climate sites. The top wines are Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs all sold under the Hartford Court label, followed by some Zinfandels (sold under the Hartford moniker) that merit more attention than they receive. All of the winery’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are fermented with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled without fining or filtration. The three Chardonnays among the current releases are all outstanding. Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel. (866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707

The vineyard is near the northwest edge of the Sonoma Coast, a wild, rugged mountainous region whose personality seems stamped on the wine. It’s enormously rich in Dijonesque fruit, offering an array of red and black currants, cherries, pomegranates, anise, cinnamon and pepper. For all the opulence, the wine is dry and balanced. But it’s just a baby. Hold until late 2010, if you can.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 94