The 2005 Pinot Noir Velvet Sisters from the Savoy and Falk Vineyards in Anderson Valley is a classic example of this area. Bluer fruits with copious notes of flowers jump from the glass of this dark ruby-colored wine. It is nuanced and elegant, with plenty of stuffing, but lovely balance and a feminine personality. Drink this wine over the next 4-5 years. New winemaker Jeff Mangahas has replaced the talented Mike Sullivan and has turned out a bevy of impressive wines. Hartford Court is undeniably one of the gems in Jess Jackson’s portfolio of boutique wineries. Tel. (800) 588-0234; Fax (800) 600-5895

The wine comes from a block within the Savoy vineyard, a source of sometimes great Pinot fruit. This wine plays it down the middle. It’s good and proper in Pinot-esque qualities, with cherry and cola flavors, a silky texture and a dry, spicy finish. But it’s not particularly exciting.——S.H.(11/1/2007)—— 87