The 2008 Pinot Noir Melville comes across as a touch lean, with limited expressiveness and a compact, lean finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. The Chardonnays and Pinots are the highlights among these new releases from Bonaccorsi Wine Company. I was less enamored with the 2007 Syrahs I tasted. The Pinots are vinified with indigenous yeasts and spend 18 months in French oak barrels, 60% new for all wines except the Melville, which gets 70%.Tel. (310) 994-3207; www.bonawine.net

A burst of black cherry fruit and spice announces this rich, complex young Pinot. Shows great structure in the fine tannins, brisk acids and firm minerality. Brims with power and assertiveness, and should develop over the next six years.——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 93