Delicate power—any oxymoron—would be a fitting way to describe this single-vineyard beauty, grown in the northern part of the appellation. There’s a lightness to the mouthfeel, like cotton candy, but then the power kicks in, reminiscent of cherry reduction, anise, orange zest, herb tea, black pepper and clove-dominated Asian spices. There’s even a hint of smoky chocolate. Best now through 2012. ——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 94