The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Coeur de Vallee is wonderfully open, silky and expressive from start to finish. Freshly cut flowers, red berries, mint and sweet spices all make an appearance in this polished, hugely refined Cabernet. Hints of tobacco and cedar add to the overall impression of pure refinement. In 2009, the Coeur de Vallee includes 24% Cabernet Franc, which gives the wine much of its sensual inner perfume and sweetness. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Luc and Jodie Morlet’s 2010s are off the charts. The 2010s have huge structure, but the fruit is so ripe and voluptuous in these wines that the perception of tannin is often imperceptible. The 2009s, on the other hand, are made from grapes that weren’t as physiologically ripe, so the tannins remain firm and in need of time in bottle to soften. As good as the Morlet range is, the most exciting wine appears to be the Morlet Estate, from a vineyard in St. Helena the Morlets purchased a few years ago. Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com

The 2009 Coeur de Vallee caresses the palate with dark plums, dark cherries, spices, licorice and tobacco. The 2009 shows gorgeous mid-palate fleshiness and tons of character from the presence of 24% Cabernet Franc in the blend. Waves of fruit gain volume through to the structured elegant finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup.Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com