The basic cuvee of St.-Joseph is called Les Challeys, and tends to be a fruit-driven wine. Sixty percent is aged in new barrels and 40% in used wood. The dark plum/purple-colored 1998 St.-Joseph Les Challeys reveals a sweet nose of candied cherries and minerals, as well as a medium-bodied, dry, moderately tannic finish. It needs 1-2 years of cellaring, and should keep for a decade or more. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000.