The 2004 Rosso Ludi is a deep powerful wine bursting with cherries, grilled wild herbs, tobacco and French oak. Still rather taut, the wine’s layered personality only emerges with some time in the glass, but there is enough freshness here to suggest that the wine will continue to drink well for at least another few years. Sweet notes of mint and licorice linger on the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. These are the finest wines I have tasted from Velenosi, an emerging producer in the Marche that is very close to making a huge jump in the overall quality of their wines. Each bottle has a different look in terms of its label, and the estate could certainly consider a more consistent look for its packaging, which would make it easier for consumers and the trade to keep track of these wines. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799