The 2007 Chianti Classico is made in a big, juicy style, with tons of dark fruit. In many ways, simpler is better here. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. These new releases from Ruffino stand out for a style that aims for extreme concentration and intensity. Once again I get the sense the estate is simply trying too hard and that the wines might benefit from an easing off of the accelerator. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

This classy expression of Chianti Classico opens with delicate aromatic layers of red berry, blue flower, moist earth and a tiny touch of chopped herb. It’s an understated wine that would pair with poultry or white meat.——M.L.(4/1/2011)—— 87