Ruffino's 2006 Chianti Classico Santedame is a simple, fruit-driven Chianti to enjoy over the next few years. There is good concentration here, but the tannins are somewhat astringent on the finish which suggests overextraction. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. These are solid wines from Ruffino, yet I am convinced the estate could do much better if the winemaking team weren't so preoccupied with making deeply-colored, overly concentrated, internationally-styled wines. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

This is a nicely shaped Chianti Classico with pretty renderings of cherry fruit, spice, tobacco and dried herbs. The mouthfeel is short but lively and the wine offers medium structure and persistence on the finish. It’s a great, informal food wine.——M.L.(9/1/2008)—— 86